Living on the road
I’ve got an idea.
I got my first campervan about six years ago so myself and my then girlfriend could go to some of the many motorbike rallies that we attended which come to think of it we never actually got round to doing. we did have some good weekends away though I took to the campervan life like a duck to water.
My passion at the time other than my motorbikes which I had quite a nice collection of was fishing fly and sea fishing the campervan opened up new possibilities for me .This would allow me and my best mate Tec to go fishing and stay over the weekends this is something I did while out on bike carrying a tent and a small amount of fishing gear. I remember a few years ago when I came back off one of my many trips along the coastline on a motorbike Tec asking me what I got up to on my three to four week jollies.
Me And My Best Mate Tec Out On Bikes One Fine Sunday.
Steve and Tec Out Riding Yamaha,s XJR 1200 & XJR 1300. to the Ponderosa cafe Horseshoe pass Llangollen.
What better way to tell him than to show him and take him with me so after a few local fishing trips we went on a long weekend to Llyn Gwyn near Rhayader in Powys a large fly fishing lake which has a red kite bird sanctuary close to its banks. Right up Tec’s street this was he did more bird watching than fishing. Which i was glad of becouse when he started fishing there was no stopping the lad.
Rhayader Town Squre
Fresh Water Supply
Fresh Beer Supply A Must.
The River Wye Running under the town bridge
Just a short walk from the bridge good fishing along here Had a few nice brown trout along this bank.
Tec is the proper outdoors type of lad into shooting and falconry and as it turns out he has a natural instinct for reading the waters when fly fishing, his calm demeanour when on the waters is just fantastic.
We spent a good few weekends in and around mid Wales and Preston fishing when not fishing we were out riding our motorbikes just doing what lads do.
Tec Having a good day. ( Llyn Gwyn ) Rhayader and Elan Valley What a week that was photo taken in a car park in Rhayader.
Paul Landed a good one at Westlow Mere Near Congleton Cheshire.
And Me Having a good day at Westlow mere
Sorry gone off track a bit there let’s get back on track !.
I had lived on my own for 30 plus years and had a nice two up two down house which I really only ever used one room this was my office room working on computer selling goods and running a few websites doing what most self employed people do working 12 – 14 hour days.
I knew something wasn’t right when i started counting the bricks on the houses opposite and thinking this life is slowly killing me. this very nearly came true when I had a heart attack one mothers day morning while out riding my motorbike.
My Yamaha V Star 1100 Which I had a Heart Attack On While Riding.
The force and the pain of the attack moved me from the front seat to the pillion seat . I actually stopped breathing for two minutes i owe my life to a lady called madeleine and a passing fire engine crew to both I’m internally grateful . when i was released from hospital my whole attitude to things had changed it was strange for some reason i developed a thirst for knowledge. Somehow i become able to fix anything without prior knowledge and was taking items apart just to see how they worked life was so much more interesting in fact friends started calling me Mr Fix it . Also i became more talkative and friendly to wards others and actually started to like people (something i was not usually known for) . I did not feel comfortable in the house at all now so started to spend hour upon hour outdoors just walking up and down the Trent and Mersey canal and the local river’s being the River Weaver and the River Dane talking the socks off anybody that stood still long enough to listen .
This chain of events got me thinking I could live in a motorhome / campervan Have a complete life style change this would mean giving up everything thing Motorbikes, my guitar’s recording studio, my car, my very large and well kitted out workshop. My vast collection of vinyl and CDs and other boys toys.
CAN I DO THIS ! DO I REALLY WANT TO DO THIS ??.
Boat on the canal near Anderton Boat Lift in Cheshire.
The answer came back quite quickly YES I CAN ! YES I DO ! so my quest for information started i started reading books and watching anything on YouTube relating to living on the road. I wasn’t interested in the guy’s with the hundred and fifty thousand pound plus motorhomes or the every night on a campsite in a different county type! not that there is anything wrong with living like that. I wanted the lads and lasses living in the self builds on a shoestring budget these are the ones that know the ropes and have the necessary survival instincts.
Talking to motorhome owners and to canal boat live-a-boarders analysing all that was said this was over a two year period then I spent another year doing a feasibility study and a costing plus a full working spreadsheet (While living in my van ) . one thing i will say now if your thinking of doing the same and have any shadow of doubt whatever do not go ahead . rethink do more research This life won’t suit everybody it most certainly is not all sunshine and roses it is what you make it and you will have to work at it. Like i have said in the blog before sometimes you might have to take a spade into the woods to relive yourself can you do that could you cope sleeping in a dark layby or a mile off road with nothing but the sounds of things rustling in the undergrowth by the side of your van. Listing to a fox screaming in the dark early hours can be a bit nerve-wracking can you cope. I sold everything thing and came out with just the clothes on my back and of course some money in the bank.
I did not like the idea of renting out the property i wanted a complete lifestyle change. I want out of the rat race and i would stop at nothing to achieve this.
Before i sold the house and while it was up for sale i lived totally in a campervan for 14 month's only going into the house to work i cooked, slept, washed, used the toilet everything i would sleep outside the house in the co-op car park in laybys on industrial estates. This was done to iron out any issues that could become major problems in the future .It allowed me to work out what type of layout in a van would suit me best. i also accounted for every penny spent in a 12 month period while living in the van thus allowing me to produce a complete spreadsheet which to base my future spending on.
HOUSE NOW ON THE MARKET .
Ok house on the market, started selling my possessions and doing a house clearance endless runs to the tip with old carpets and the remains of my workshop the workshop took up all the garden and would not of helpful in selling the property. A few days spent painting the walls and Ceilings and a few small odd jobs
My only plan was to keep the self build camper that i was using for the first twelve months this would allow me to adjust in familiar surroundings knowing and trusting my vehicle would be a load off my mind .This however did not happen two weeks into my new life style the van i knew would be suitable for me and one in had been looking for came up for sale up north and I was way down south .
I made a few phone calls to let them know I was travelling from off the lizard to the showroom near Preston I’m glad i went as it's just what i was looking for deal done spent a few hours moving my gear from one van to another well actually i just chucked it from one van to the other.
After a Night in a layby and most of the next day reorganising my new home i was back on track off nack down south life’s Good . So now my new life starts the freedom to go where i wish when i wish I Didn't have a set plan but i knew I wanted to travel into Scotland and do some fishing.
I also knew that i would be like a dog with two dicks running wild at least for a Few months anyway .
AWAY WE GO !
Down South In My New Home.
I will have a few months down south and get Myself settled into my new life style. The weather down south is always a few degrees warmer and i know where I can wildcamp also i have some very good friends near Bude (Andy and Dee) that would help me with any problems that might arise .
I needed a new mattress first and bedding a decent 12volt radio and other comfort items to make the van more like a home.
My New Home.
Now the next thing is to find water taps and find a campsite that will let you just use the facilities without having to stay overnight obviously there will be a small charge involved for the use of the Elan ( toilet waste ) and the shower plus a laundrette on site would be a bonus . Remember i will have to do this in each area that i intend to spend a few weeks in and carrying 40ltrs of water in your holding tank is not a good idea . Another thing to look for is parking especially free parking your be surprised how much you spend just parking to go and spend even more money.
1 look for water taps.
2 look for free parking.
3.look for place’s to deposit toilet waste.
4 look for a laundrette .
5 look for showers ( public baths).
6 look for gas suppliers .
7 look for a chemist or doctors ( in case of an emergency )
8 look for free food (foraging is fun )
9 look for places to sleep ( laybys, industrial estates, side roads, run offs, ) etc
10 look for a post office (you can use post resonate to receive any post )
11 look for a police station ( again in case of any type of emergency )
12 look for café or pubs (free WiFi) ( toilet facilities )
Sure your getting the idea now !..
Good food at the Kings Arthur,s Arms in Tintagel cornwall.
One of my stopovers Overlooking Widemouth Bay
Boscastle well worth a visit.
Top View to the old summer house on the cliff top, Boscastle + Low tide marker at summerleaze beach Bude
Been in Devon and Cornwall for a few months
now and getting itchy feet so time for a move there’s a wild camping meet coming up soon at Rutland water i can attend the meeting then carry on into Cheshire .
Anderton Park Cheshire
Northwich Town Centre.
Northwich Swing Bridge.
Misty morning On the Trent and Mersey Canal
Working Bardge At Anderton Boatlift.
Boats at the old boat yard.
Salterford locks, Anderton Park,Town centre Bridge,Canal at Barnton,
While in Cheshire i can call on a few friends especially Tec have a few days fishing sure he will be up for that then I will carry on up into the boarders then Scotland .
Not Much To See But A Nice Walk.
First stop Adrian’s Wall so passing through Kirkby Lonsdale onto Hawes then to the tarn hill pub had a nice meal and parked up overnight so a few beers were called for.
Feeling refreshed i travelled a short distance to Brough which to me was worth staying around for a few days you’re near to the Eden Valley Railway ,
My Stopover Near Brough
Aston Near Brough
Great Asby Scar and about 20ish miles from Penrith .
I chose to call at Barnard castle then back track to Brough and up to Penrith following the A686 stopping at Hartside summit fantastic views from here going on though the Gilderdale Forest to Alston along theA689 To Brampton.
The View From The Summit Hartside
My Stop For The Night Hartside Summit.
The Emperor Hadrian
Bramton,s High Street
Bramton,s Town Clock
Staying in a layby for the night just outside of Brampton paying a visit to Hadrian wall from their travelling to Gretna Green up to Lockerbie across to Langholm then on to Moffat all fabulous places to visit.
On from Moffat passed St Marys Loch to Selkirk carrying across though Kelso stopped in Coldstream wonderful place and a must see for anybody from there up to Edinburgh nice but well busy. Out of Edinburgh to the falkirk wheel stayed here for about 5 nights good walks along the canal and into the town. Now travelling to Loch Lomond
Loch Lomond
Banks of Loch Lomond My Home For The Night.
paid a visit to Balmaha before dropping down to Alexander found somewhere to stay for the night then upwards and onwards to Inveruglas two nights here on the shore of Loch Lomond and fishing to boot wonderful .
One of the many Breath Taking Views Of The GlenCoe Valley.
Does It Get Any Better Than This
Following the A82 to Crianlarich up into Glen Coe and Ben Nevis overnighting near the Glencoe ski centre God its heaven here short run to Glen Co visitors centre found a nice spot right on the river bank good for a few nights and a pub a short walk across the river .
On to Loch Linnhe nice overnight stay here not even 8 mile from my last stopover but hey am in no rush from here in the morning after taking in the view is parked up in Fort William
The Commando Memorial. North of Fort William at Lochaber.
spent most of the day here fishing from The car park being hammered by a lad no more than twelve years old God what a lesson that was brought me back down to earth .
Next port of call is Loch Lochy again another great place and the views are to die for the next Loch is Loch Ness must say a bit of a let down here from the main road side anyway the view much improved when you got near the Caledonian Canal .
Onto the A1 over the Moray Firth then over the Cromarty Firth God i was nearly weeing myself both with fear and excitement it was just unbelievable . Staying on the A39 following the coast going over the Dornoch Firth need another wee-wee now finally stopping for the night and mile or so short of Berriedale the walk down to the abandoned village is well worth the walk be warned its not an easy path to take.
From here up to Wick then a short drive to John o Groats
Nice Hotel at John "O" Groats.
Nice views if nothing else ?
sorry but another let down ! The walks and the views are Unsurpassed (( however I would put John o grots sorry John o Groats and Lands end along with Cromer on the east coast and if You have read my blog you will know what i thought of Cromer)) in boats and scuttle each one off their own coastlines that’s if you can get the tide at Cromer to come in !.
the Falkirk Wheel .
Spent a few nights in the car park at John o Groats with no problems might be because it’s out of season reason I say that is there is a nice campsite right in front of this carpark with a shower block also another site with some good log cabins. Leaving now but going to Thurso before making My way To wick stopping at Loch Watten and the River Wick Retracing my route stopping for the night at Berriedale again for The night weather is really good and the views are unbelievable. Driving though Brora then Golspie over Loch Fleet then Dornoch Firth this is bypassed Inverness staying on the A9 to Tomatin (Findhorn Viaduct) then drove to Aviemore.
Staying with the A9 towards Pitlochry i overnighted near Dunfallandy stone leaving the A9 and heading for Aberfeldy along the A827 now making my way back to Loch Earn to spend a few days fishing .I stopped off in Crieff then St Fillans in order to get my fishing permit found my park up for the next few days . After a brew and a rest in noticed to blokes camping and fishing tents pitched up right on the shoreline but what i was drawn to was the wonderful smell of a good cigar.
This was my excuse to go over and have a chat after being shown the fishing setup for brown trout using worms for bait i was offered a smoke i had to be honest and told them that it was the cigar smoke that made me come over to talk.
I went back to my van to collect my fishing gear in order to spend the rest of the day at their camp fishing with 12 full size King Edward Cigars firmly clasped in my hand unbelievable and not even my birthday. It turned out one of the lads is off the oil Riggs and loaded . had a good fish supper cooked on an open fire along with a nice drop of whisky a fine cigar and two new friends .
On the move again going towards Kilmahog ( Brig o Turk ) then onto the Queens View in the Kilpatrick Hills staying here for a few nights .
not wanting to visit Glasgow i choose to head back to the Falkirk Wheel then after a night here carry on towards North Berwick using the Mountain and A270. Now i will follow this coastline up to Alnwick
Tree House At Alnwick.
Alnwick Castle Overlooking the River Aln.
14 ft high statue of Sir Henry Percy( Harry Hotspur) in Alnwick Northumberland.
so i can visit the Hardy fly fishing museum stopping on route at Dunbar overnighting at Pease bay call at St Abbs Eyemouth then stopping at Berwick-upon-Tweed
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Berwick Coast watch tower.
where I will be based for a fortnight staying in one or two laybys along the A598. This will allow me to revisit Coldstream go to Kelso , Galashiels , Selkirk and Jedburgh .
The River Tweed Runs Along Side Coldstream.
Coldstream.
The Road Into Coldstream
Plan of Kelso Abbey
Kelso Abbey
Making a move to Lindisfarne ( Holywell Island ) where i stayed two night’s on the Island one night was after a bit after rain in the day my van was well and truly stuck in the mud on the car park. The next day a life guard with is landy whiched me out then showed me a spot in could stay without any one bothering me..
St Cuthberts Square Lindisfarne ( Holy Island )
Lindisfarne Castle ( Holy Island )
Holy Island
HEADING DOWN SOUTH
On the move again went to Budle Bay watched a very nice sunset in the morning i paid a visit to the imposing Bamburgh Castle this is a must see place just looking out towards the Farne Islands is breathtaking .then of Course You have Seahouses a little further down nice place for a walk around
moving on straight to Alnwick park up in the main carpark for the gardens they let you overnight in this car park which I did for a fortnight you were locked in at night when they remembered to lock the gates. The gardens are a must the waterfall and the Singing gate are just fabulous you can view the singing gate without having to pay the fees for the garden just take the foot path though the park to the town. Alnwick is a very nice place with good walks along the river this give you one of the best views of the Castle you can find Good walks are everywhere in and around this town. A day trip to Alnmouth bay and Amble and Druidge Bay are well worth the time try the kippers costly but for a one off treat unbeatable .
Bamburgh Castle
The Great Hall In The Castle.
Moving further down now
Its easier for me to get on to the A1 now And get onto the A1M getting off for Thirsk making my way to Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay this was my favourite place to end up while touring on my motorbike. Their is a cracking campsite in Whitby that gladly take Bikers and motorhomes this is over the bridge in old whitby this will be my second stop an a campsite since setting off on my new life.((The first time i ever won on the lottery i was staying on this campsite while touring on bike i had just packed up off the site to carry on my travels. Thought I would call in the paper shop had my ticket checked found in won a reasonable amount so went back to the campsite pitched up on the same spot went and paid for another week. How mad is that and how mad am i)).
From Whitby i will drive to Pickering ( not keen on Scarborough so i will give it a miss ) then Malton and overnight before York, Harrogate, Skipton, Clitheroe onto the M6 and back into Cheshire. Have a few days catching up with Tec also will call and see Stewart he lives on a canal barge and helped me out a lot while i was doing my research . While around here i can get 240 volt hook up fresh water shower and washing done without going on a site, i will only use bottled water for my brews or food cooking leaving the holding tank water for showering and washing plus flushing the loo.
Making my way towards Kings Lynn now stopping on the moors around Macclesfield and Buxton on to Nottingham making my next stop at the wildcamping.co.uk Club meet At Rutland Water where we got to see the Vulcan bomber and its last ever flight.
Last Flight Of The Vulcan Bomber Over Rutland Water.
That was a sight to see not a cloud in the sky, the day the rally Finished We had 1 hours light rain and guess who got stuck in the mud yep your right .
Leaving Rutland and making my way to Kings Lynn overnighting between Wisbech and King Lynn i found Kings Lynn far to busy for me so I carried on to Sandringham House well worth the £20.00 entry fee
Sandringham Church
Inside of the church
The Pulpit
Sandringham House
Sandringham House
One of the many Displays.
Another Display
Stopped in Holt on the way to Cromer
Holt Near Cromer.
Cromer was next on the list and the less said about that the better in fact to be honest with you all i did not like it along this coastline.
by the time i got to Great Yarmouth i was ready to cut me wrists
Sorry But Great Yarmouth was not for me.
Got into lowestoft getting better thought I find somewhere to sleep ending up just outside of Southwold.
Southwold pier water clock.
Beach huts at Southwold.
The Beach Huts Here Cost a Wopping £150.000 Each
could not settle there everybody was in the layby trying to hawk their Pork ? Don’t know what i mean ask yer dad. Needless to say i soon pissed off from there 20 mile further on it found another layby near Yoxford it was just getting dark no use driving blind this layby turned out to be their second port of call for hawking their Pork i was to nackered to move on so fuck em i got to sleep . In the morning i must of looked like Marty Feldman .
Passing through Thetford, Bury St Edmunds, Cambridge, Huntingdon, St Neots,Bedford Northampton sleeping near Bicester for the night. Carrying on to Aylesbury Oxford Cirencester Chippenham Devizes Trowbridge. then on to Westbury sleeping on the plato above the White Horse on Salisbury Plain for over a week.
A good view off the top over the plain
White Horse At Westbury.
While i was there a large group of Children arrived for what was a very well organised Halloween party with fireworks and cooked food . After what was a wonderful week i was so let down by my visit to Stonehenge historically wonderful but visually Sad. Least I have been .
Wonderful ?
Moving further down after a long drive along the A303 i got onto the M5 for short run to Weston-super-Mare hoping to meet up with the guy who bought my first campervan of me i was a 30 year old Renault Traffic T800 Poptop great old van and in good condition certainly inside anyway. The fella came down to Cheshire using taxi, bus and train after buying and paying for the van from me on eBay. Took him for a test drive this fella was at least 6ft 6 in tall so did look quite cramped in the drivers seat he left me to head home around 4 o clock pm and was at home for 9.30 pm not bad going i thought . never got to meet up with him but did see a photo of the van on the Internet
NOTE To self look for photo.
From Weston-super-Mare down to Burnham – on- sea then to Bridgwater back onto the coast road for Porlock Bay ending up staying near Watermouth Castle. Then into llfracombe for the day onto Barnstaple moving to Westward Ho ! and staying over for two nights which is Allowed in the main carpark. Where on the second night while eating my fishing and chips on the car park wall i saw a parking wardens car drive past looking into the carpark. He then parked up near the sea wall i think is about 30 mtrs away walked up to my van that was tucked in the corner right-hand side between the wall and the church door. People that have been will now the spot and checked for a ticket bear in mind was out of season this was after dark late tea time. Now This twat walked though a half full car park not looking at any other vehicles he was like a shitehawk homing in on it pray . I be ready if this happens again now i allways carry my Gopro with me .
From there is a short run to where i base myself in and around Bude .
Beach huts at summerleaze Bude
Nanny Moores Bridge across the river Neet
Nanny Moores bridge is a grade ll listed building in Bude-Stratton .
If memory serves me well this would be about early June about the same as a canal barge was reported to have been in a life threatening situation a mile out from Bude’s coast line . The RNLI having received a distress call from the barge owners Lee and Vicky, the RNLI went out to answer the distress call and found the couple were in need of rescue. Their story in Lee and Vicky’s own words is printed below.
Lee and Vicky,s 60ft cruiser narrow boat Orbis.
Lee and Vicky,s Story.
NO FOOL LIKE AN OLD FOOL
About two years ago, I had a desire to put to sea in my 60ft cruiser narrow boat .The desire was spurned by three events; completing a trip down the tidal Thames in to the estuary, reading Narrow dog to carcasgoin, and several articles on YouTube.
The boat was as far as I could see unsuitable in its present form: the front deck and rear deck were open to the elements. The cruiser stern had no shelter from the weather and was likely to be swamped, in pitching or rolling sea .The windows were also seen as vulnerable. The engine was inadequate as we had discovered on the tidal Thames.
So began the transformation: We encased the for deck with 4mm steel and welded a high bow to the gunwale, along with some extra bollards. The windows were covered with rectangular and outward protruding half boxes with portholes. The stern was next to be addressed. Having a liking for Dutch barges. I built a wheelhouse, and engine room, some 6.5 metres long .This was somewhat challenging, given the boats lack of symmetry. No good datum point could be found; each side of the boat varied by as much as 30mm in height and length. As such the wheelhouse could not be fabricated elsewhere. We were moored to a floating,” well just “pontoon, and could not afford to dry dock the boat. Tenacity prevailed and the task was finally Completed.I also had to fabricate a false floor inside to enable a clear view out of the windscreen. The air gap increased by 600mm making it 2mtrs.
The engine came of EBay previously fitted to a Daff 45 truck 5.9ltrs and 160bhp. We purchased a new gear box, an industrial unit built in North Korea. The installation and marinisation I carried out myself. A new engine bed was also fabricated.
My wife Vicki was gainfully employed refitting the boat. Having lost some twenty foot of living space. The bedroom was moved to the bow, all the other accommodation was moved forward. Surprisingly the extra weight of the new installed engine/gearbox some 1400kg did not affect the trim of Orbis. A hydraulic steering system was sourced and installed.
During the build, I had read an article in towpath about the Bude canal in Cornwall. Having both a Sea lock and a short navigable canal. This was to become our destination of choice.
We took Orbis for a short trial, apart from some minor problems she performed well. It was no faster than with the previous engine but the reaction time was much better: Its acceleration and deceleration was impressive!
In May 2016 my work in construction dwindled it seemed an ideal time to go on an extended cruise before a sea trial.
We decided to head north towards Boston and the Wash. So we headed up the Trent through Lincoln, down the Witham and to Boston. We consulted with the lock keeper, who advised us to wait for a suitable weather window. It took four days for the bad weather to abate. We had on board some safety equipment and some navigation aids: 2x chart plotters, a sat nav, vhf radio, two compasses, life jackets, life rings, and all the charts necessary.
Six other narrow boats were also planning to cross the Wash and enter the Nene navigation. They had employed the assistance of a pilot .The lock keeper suggested that we contribute to the cost of the pilot, and join the six boats. We did not want to cross with the six or to cross with a pilot. It would seem that there is an unwritten rule that if your passage is co-in siding with a piloted transit it is expected that you contribute to the cost .As such we changed our planned course from the Nene to the Great Ouse.
Whilst waiting for the weather to break, we befriended a couple who were also wishing to go to Kings Lynn. They had previously completed this very passage. I was confident and thankful to be proceeding on our first sea foray with an experienced boat buddy.
Prior to entering the lock, all fuel filters and oil filters were changed. The fuel tank was a new one, so I was confident that there was no contamination present. I had 450ltrs of fuel on board all was prepared. Raw water strainers checked and a full nut and bolt check completed.
On leaving the lock our hearts were racing, the excitement was palpable. The Wash was very calm, almost pond like. Less waves than on the tidal Thames. I began to wish for some excitement (careful what you wish for) I was to regret this wish later! Our companions weighed anchor as the tide began to turn. We however decided to continue towards King Lynn. I had plotted a route, the passage being aided by marker buoys highlighting the channel. We continued for 3nm before we ran out of water, and were grounded. This at first caused some consternation, until it became apparent that one just has to wait for the tide to turn and re float the boat.
On arrival at Kings Lynn our companions had caught us up, they chose to moor on a council floating pontoon, at £28.00 per night. We decided not to moor there and continued on down the Ouse. It should be noted that with the benefit of hindsight, this was not a good idea! There was nowhere else to moor for a further two hours, and when we did it was not without its hazards’ had to cross the fast flowing tidal stream beam on and attempt to moor on a floating pontoon.
The navigation we were heading for was up stream of where we had moored, the lock was completely submerged so we had no choice but to moor where we did. We spent the night on the mooring, phoned the lock keeper to arrange passage on to the midlevels. Having checked the air gap under the many bridges it seemed ok! On arrival at the lock the tide was still very high; the lock was still under water, a bazar sight. One has to be very careful the tide drops at 2inch per minute and there are hazards under the water; hand rails and other protrusions.
The navigation was very low on water; we dragged our way along the bottom which as it turned out was lucky. One of the bridges was much lower than publicised, so much so that the bridge scrapped the paint off the wheelhouse roof. It took us a day and a half to complete the navigation which brought us to Peterborough. I would like to at this point highlight the absence of services on the Nene, and the midlevel’s. There is no fuel point between Peterborough and Northampton. There is also a complete absence of elsan points. Very few places to moor and few water points.
During our trip down the mid-level’s the silt and crud thrown up by the constant dragging, caused significant wear in the cutlass bearing. Consequently the prop was wobbling and making an awful noise. It needed to be addressed and quickly. I carry a spare prop and cutlass bearing, I tried to fit the new cutlass bearing but the thread was not compatible with the stern post spigot. We were miles from the nearest dry dock or crane. Plus our funds would have been pressed to finance the job, having looked at the problem it seemed that if we could widen the bearing centres, it would aid the support of the cutlass bearing. This necessitated moving the engine and gearbox forward 100mm. Quite a task moored on a river bank.
Having completed the task, we continued cross country off the Nene and on to the Grand Union and then the Stratford on Avon canal. Then on to the river Avon, and the Severn River. All without a hitch. The prop was also much quieter.
Gloucester docks: ‘wow’ what a fantastic vista truly something all boaters should aim to see. From there we proceeded down the Gloucester and Sharpness canal. No locks fantastic!
On reaching the Severn (proper) we were once again at the weathers mercy; we had to wait 6days for the windy rainy weather to abate. We had charts for all the planned passage. I use a Portland chart plotter for my navigation backed up by sat nav for latitude and longitude. Combined with two spare compasses.
We left sharpness at 7.40am 1 hr. before high water and made our way down following compass bearings taken from the chart. There are buoys and land marks the passage was easy. Under the second bridge the water flows very fast, the tidal stream bullies the boat, moving the rudder made little difference. Full throttle provided the reassurance and direction that we needed.
We continued down the Summerset coast between the two rocky out crops: Steep Holme and Flat holme. Our intended destination, which was booked in advance, was Watchet harbour some 60 miles away. To catch the right tide we had to cover the distance in 10hrs. This we did. On entering the harbour the tide was at h/w and with a strong flow. In the harbour which is quite small for a 60 foot leviathan. We had to navigate across the harbour beam on. To a strong tidal flow. With the help of some local residents we managed to moor and not damage anything! The mooring fee was £50.00 for the night.
To avoid the strong tidal flow we had to leave at 7am the following morning, 1 hr. before h/w. Our next hop was Ilfracombe only 25m away. Our arrival was not in sync with the correct tide time, so we anchored half a mile off shore. The sea state was moderate to fair, which according to the Beaufort scale, is up to 1mtr waves. This is what we encountered; nothing for a sea gong vessel but for a narrow boat is frightening. My first inclination that a N/B has all the sea worthiness and the technology contained therein of a tin bath! In fact I would now contend that the tin bath is more sea worthy. We had to wait for 4hrs to enter the harbour.
North Devon and north Cornwall harbours cater predominantly for small fishing vessels moorings for larger vessels are scarce. The only mooring available to us was tying up to a large boat that sails between the mainland and the isle of Lundy. This was about to become a sleepless and stressful night. The harbour dries out completely; the draft on The Oldenburg is 1.5mtr. The draft on Orbis much less! Consequently I was up all night adjusting the mooring ropes, as the tide waxed and waned. On our passage down we had been continually checking the sea state both visually and by the shipping forecast. This we continued to do, but when the morning came the Oldenburg was so high in the water, we could not get off the boat the visually check the sea! We had to leave the Oldenburg was due to sail to Lundy.
We decided to rely on the shipping forecast. On leaving the harbour; once past the sea wall our hearts sank, the sea was rough (for a narrow boat) 1 to1.5 metre waves. We knew that it was too much for Orbis. To say nothing of us. I knew that we had to turn round and go back to the sanctuary of the harbour, this however could not be done immediately, and we were too close to the rocks. We headed out to sea, crashing through the waves for about a quarter of a mile before we attempted the turn. I was dreading the turn; the incoming waves would now be beam on. Halfway through the manover, I noticed a rope on the roof starting to uncoil (I had not made a good job of securing the centre rope, due in part to a sleepless night) in the blink of an eye it was round the prop.
We were now dead in the water, beam on to the 1.5mtr waves .I Have a heel meter in Orbis It read 45degrees to starboard and port. Everything on the boat was dislodged; knives that were in a magnetic holder in the kitchen were breaking free and sticking in the laminate floor. One could hardly remain upright; my wife was wedged between two lockers and myself in the wheelhouse who was so frightened he wet himself. We rang 999 and asked for the coastguards, within a few minutes a rib carrying four RNLI chaps came to our assistance. The look of astonishment o their faces, would have been amusing under different circumstances. They through a rope around the bow and towed us bow to the waves. The rib however was too small to tow us in. Within ten minutes a large Shannon class life boat came to our rescue and towed us in to the harbour. They pulled us right up to the top of the harbour where it completely dries out, so we could untangle the prop.
I am neither articulate nor eloquent enough to express the fear and relief of such an experience. My wife and I both thought that the boat was going to roll over and that we would die. The sea is cold and survival is estimated at 17 minutes. The heroes that came to our rescue, they truly are heroes. Praise is insufficient and words cannot express our extreme gratitude...
Little did we know that the voyage was to become even more challenging? Once again little sleep due to the rising and falling tide adjusting the ropes. We could at least this time visually check the state of the sea. Which was calm. However due to the pitching and rolling of the boat the previous day, we had lost some equipment including a chart that we needed for the last leg of the journey: Hartland point to Bude. There was nowhere in Ilfracombe to replace the much needed chart. All we had was a road map, which luckily had Easterlies and northerlies so a route could be plotted. Although no record of sea hazards are present on road maps!!
We had to leave at 08.00 at the highest tide. Another £50.00 in harbour fees were collected by the harbourmaster. Once again getting out the harbour was a challenge. Once outside the harbour we made 8kn the sea had a good swell, the waves were small. The swell was coming over the bow and covering the stern with the rise and fall of the boat. A standard narrow boat would have been swamped. The tide caused the boat to crab, we were three miles from shore. Vicki became sea sick from the pitching movement. We had been making headway for about two and a half hours and were at a right angle to Hartland point. Where the Bristol Channel crashes into the Atlantic. I was expecting a rough sea at this point. The sea did not fail to live up to my expectations, and more. The bow was going completely under water, water cascading down the roof and hitting the windscreen. I can only describe the sea as a bubbling cauldron. Waves from every direction, once again we nearly rolled. My nerves were at this point completely shot, I started to panic and regrettably put out a SOS. Within 15 minutes we were past what we now know to be called the races. I tried to cancel the SOS but to no avail. They came anyway, along with a local fishing boat, which they must have summoned to our assistance.
The RNLI decided to escort us to Bude about an hour away. No doubt fearful that both the vessel and crew were ill equipped. They were right! An hour later we arrived at Bude Haven. Six hours too soon for the correct tide. We once again deployed the anchor one mile off shore. The inshore life boat came out to check we were ok. The Shannon class life boat departed f back to Appledore. Whilst at anchor it pays to align with a land mark to check for drift. This we did during the long wait I had paid out about 60foot of warp forty foot being chain the rest rope. The swell became ever greater and we noticed that drift had occurred. I made my way to the bow to reset the anchor. I was astonished to find we had lost the anchor. The rope had chaffed through. It was now 18.00 the lock would not have enough water until 19.00 we had to head out to sea and circle till 19.00. Both the Harbour master and the RNLI were paragons of reassurance. Once again my words fail me.
I was by now a complete wreck incapable of coherent speech let alone actions. Vicki my rock stepped in and piloted the boat and tried to reassure me, her sea sickness was set aside and she truly took the helm. The harbour master had requested that the RNLI pilot us in to the harbour/ lock, not an easy task. The surf in Bude is a magnet for surfers, the entrance to the harbour is very narrow jagged rocks one side and sand banks the other. After three attempted approaches we were lined up we crashed through the surf. Perfect helmsman-ship from Vicki. We sailed into the lock, a safe haven at last. The sea lock at Bude opens very few times per year, consequently it attracts many spectators. There is a volunteer crew who man the lock with resolve and pride. The spectacle of a sixty foot narrow boat looking to all intents and purposes like a submarine. Attracted many spectators along with the local media.
Bude is a very special place; everyone has made us feel most welcome. I owe a debt of gratitude to the RNLI at Ilfracombe, Appledore, Bude, and to the Harbour-Master all others connected. But most of all to my wife Vicki, who through my naivety and arrogance nearly died.
Do not put to sea in a narrow boat.
N/B Orbis
Many thanks to my friends Lee and Vicky for allowing me to include their fantastic story in my adventures
My idea of living On the road is to live in my van long enough in one county long enough to enjoy and get to know the place if i started to upset the natives i will simply move on.
Boat on the canal near Anderton Boat Lift in Cheshire.
While i was there a large group of Children arrived for what was a very well organised Halloween party with fireworks and cooked food . After what was a wonderful week i was so let down by my visit to Stonehenge historically wonderful but visually Sad. Least I have been .
